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The Auberge du Jeu de Paume: A Golfer’s Royal Retreat
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In the southwestern corner of Ireland, where the land meets the roaring Atlantic and legends linger in the mist, the Ring of Kerry unfolds as one of the world’s most awe-inspiring drives. But for golfers, this isn’t just a scenic route — it’s a pilgrimage. Here, fairways snake through ancient dunes, greens hover beside loughs and mountains, and the spirit of traditional links golf lives on, unspoiled and untamed.
The Ring of Kerry is a 179-kilometer circular route through County Kerry, renowned for its staggering beauty — coastal cliffs, winding mountain roads, charming villages, and deep cultural roots. But woven between these landmarks is something even more magical: some of Ireland’s finest and most unique golf courses, each shaped by the wild terrain and steeped in history.

Nowhere else in the world do the game and the land blend quite like they do here. At the Killarney Golf & Fishing Club, located in the heart of Killarney National Park, golf is framed by the still waters of Lough Leane and the towering MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, Ireland’s highest mountain range. The Killeen Course, a multiple-time host of the Irish Open, is a stunning test of golf, but also a tranquil escape, where deer roam the fairways and silence is broken only by the cry of a red kite overhead.

A short drive away, another legend awaits: Waterville Golf Links, a course often whispered about with reverence by professionals and purists alike. Set on a narrow isthmus between the Atlantic Ocean and Lough Currane, Waterville combines ferocious winds, towering dunes, and a raw beauty that tests both technique and imagination. Champions like Tiger Woods and the late Payne Stewart made this a regular stop — indeed, Stewart’s bronze statue watches over the course as a tribute to his connection to it.
Waterville doesn’t just challenge your game — it deepens your appreciation for golf’s origins. Here, modern architecture respects traditional links principles, resulting in a course that feels both timeless and vital. You walk off the 18th green not just with a score, but with a story.

While Waterville may take the headlines, Dooks Golf Links, near the charming town of Glenbeigh, holds a different kind of charm — quieter, older, and utterly enchanting. Founded in 1889, Dooks is one of the oldest golf clubs in Ireland and one of the most natural.
Here, there are no artificial mounds or sculpted bunkers — just pure links golf as it was meant to be, with rolling fairways, quirky bounces, and sweeping views of Dingle Bay. The course’s intimate layout follows the rhythm of the dunes and sea breezes, making every round feel organic and alive.

It’s not just a place to play — it’s a place to breathe. Rare wildflowers bloom beside tee boxes. Natterjack toads, a protected species, thrive in the sandy wetlands. Dooks is a golf course with a heart, fiercely preserved by the local community who take immense pride in its heritage.

The true magic of golfing the Ring of Kerry isn’t just in the swings and scores — it’s in the moments between. You’ll find it in a pint of Guinness shared with locals in a fireside pub. In a winding detour to a cliff-top monastery like Skellig Michael, made famous by Star Wars but revered for its 6th-century monks. In the quiet serenity of Muckross House Gardens, or the dramatic echoes of the Gap of Dunloe.

In between rounds, golfers can explore castles, cycle coastal trails, discover ancient ring forts, or simply wander through colour-washed villages like Sneem, where art galleries, seafood restaurants, and stone bridges offer perfect pauses.
This region is also a haven for storytelling — locals are more than happy to share tales of Celtic warriors, sea monsters, and golfing legends over a bowl of fresh seafood chowder or a dram of whiskey by the fire.

What sets the Ring of Kerry apart isn’t just the quality of its courses — though they’re undeniably among Ireland’s best — but the soul of the place. These are not cookie-cutter resorts or manicured playgrounds. They are living landscapes, where golf is shaped by wind and weather, tradition and topography.
Whether you’re tackling a championship course lined by lakes and mountains or strolling historic links carved from dunes and time, each round here is a reminder of why we fall in love with the game in the first place.
The Ring of Kerry isn’t just for driving or sightseeing — it’s for experiencing. For golfers, it’s a destination that speaks to the heart of the sport: wild, unpredictable, poetic, and unforgettable.
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